Castelli

Castelli is a physically small town with a population of 1,530 on a hillside (elevation about 1,666 ft.) on the east side of Gran Sasso and fairly close to where we live (about an hour's drive). It is famous for the production of maiolica ceramics. Maiolica were extremely popular with Europeans 500 years ago and retain a substantial number of collectors and admirers today. The Russian Tsars were particular fond of Castelli maiolica and a large collection of it exists in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.

Castelli continues to produce maiolicas today but also has a thriving business in modern ceramics. It attracts collectors worldwide but primarily from Europe. We have been to Castelli on several occasions and never seen Americans, a rather unusual absence for a city that is a rather large tourist draw for Europeans.

It is a very small (I can't imagine how the Russian Tsars found it), pleasant hill town and easily walked (warning: to see the whole town, requires some severe up and down hill walking; however, it is possible to see a substantial portion of the town without any extreme walking). The area around Castelli is very beautiful, most of it being part of the Gran Sasso national park. The roads to Castelli are well maintained, offer great views and many twists, turns and switchbacks. It's worth the drive just to go there.

Shops selling the local ceramics are also located on the approaches to the city. The prices in these shops are as good as in the city and the selections are also good, though each shop, in the city and outside the city, carries some unique ceramics. The prices for Castelli maiolica are better at the city (both inside and near) than anywhere else we have found. Distributors sell Castelli maiolica throughout the Abruzzo and in many parts of Italy but always at a higher price.

While almost everyone comes for the classic Castelli maiolica, the modern ceramics are also very interesting and creative. Several shops are devoted exclusively to them.

As a side note, in a small local bar, we were served some of the best coffee we have ever tasted. Curiously, in an area where the going price for coffee is .90 euro per cup this bar charged us only .65 euro.

For another view of Castelli see this blog entry. I agree with all of it, especially regarding the restaurant but not with regard to modern ceramic work.